
I just got back from a food orgy. It was dark and we took a taxi to the Medina. A man in a white robe and red fez cap lead us down the narrow alleyways. He stopped at an ornate golden door with a heavy knocker and knocked 3 times. Behold Restaurant Dirjanat. Originally a seventeenth-century mansion it is now a palatial eatery. Live traditional Moroccan musicians gently played in the main dining hall while a fire, kept alive by the ever so gracious staff, burned at the far end. I have never in my life seen anything more beautiful. Of course I didn't bring my camera (the picture above is a random one from the internet) but to do so would have ruined the ambiance. Every detail from the carpet, to the light fixture, plates, and glasses were delicate and exquisite. Before dinner they bring you warm rose water which they pour over your hands into a basin with floating rose petals. I had the sweet lamb tagine with raisins and almonds. The lamb just fell off the bone and the sauce was sublime. But let me not forget the starters, oh the starters! What rhapsody. We had the traditional soup Hairira which is a tomato based chicken soup with cilantro, lentils, rice, saffron, cumin, and cinnamon. This is actually the dish I made on New Year's Day. This is a staple of the Moroccan diet. During Ramadan they break their fast with dates and this soup. It is quite filling. But let me not forget the prince of the starters, the Pastilla. Oh the Pastilla how I love thee. Pastilla is made of ground pigeon (I know but its delish) and combines sweet and salty flavors. The pigeon is marinated in a broth then cooked in sweet and ever so flaky phyllo dough, brushed with butter, and then topped with ground almonds, sugar and cinnamon. I think I'm in love. We had a lovely bottle of wine and people watched all the glamorous diplomats and wealthy Rabatis in attendance. And at the end of the meal they brought over rose oil as a fragrance for our hands. What an experience. I think I'm starting to like this place.

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